Good bye, Kibo (by Darina)

Saturday 25th September 2010

Our last day on Kilimanjaro starts early at 6 o'clock. It's still slightly dark but soon we can see the the sun rising and casting its rays around our camp. We're still fairly high (3700m) and the view over the clouds is magnificent.

We are enjoying the last day of the routine - tea to the tent, green washing bowls, packing the rucksacks, going for the breakfast. But that's where the routine ends. After the breakfast all the porters and guides are waiting for us outside the tent and the tipping ceremony starts. The porters sing a couple of songs (and the national anthem) and then Nilam and Jason present our tips. It's quite emotional when you realise our whole trip was dependant on these people. And they took an excellent care of us - feeding us, supporting us, carrying our bags, building our tents. I am very grateful to all of them for making it possible for us to have this fantastic experience while spending our time in the Kilimanjaro National Park. Thank you!

And then it's time to get on the route down. We are leaving Kibo and Mawenzi behind us, still standing there - proud and majestic. The route is a totally different experience and not only because we're walking downhill. We are now on the Machame Route (also called Coca-cola route) and we are passing people who are on their way up. This feels strange. After four five days of meeting very little people on our route, the traffic on this one seems enormous. Our normally very well organised group is not organised anymore either. We are walking more or less on our own, occasionally meet altogether and then splitting again, depending on the pace which everybody finds comfortable. We are walking through sunny and cloudy patches, at one point it looks like it's going to rain. The vegetation is changing too, the bushes are replaced by little trees and bigger trees and by the time we reach our half-way point - Mandara Huts - we walk through the rain forest. What a change this is!

We have a short break at Mandara and some of us get really excited as there is a little shop there selling Coca-cola (hence the nickname of the route). I am happy with just a little bit of a sit down as the constant downhill walking is killing my knees (even though I wear the knee supports). The path wasn't as pretty as on the picture, most of the way it was just stones, rocks and tree roots. But we made it up to here and there is about two three more hours of walking to Marangu Gate, our ultimate goal of today.

Mandara has a special feel for me for another reason. It's a place when my phone finally gets a signal and manages to send a few texts - to my father, to my friends and to Chris Powell who has been a valuable source of information and support to us! And what's more, we get a response from him - unfortunately being denied to climb to the top of Zugspitze due to bad weather. Still it feels like his spirit is here with us!

And now it's time to continue with our track, through the forests and on the paths that are a little bit more enjoyable and comfortable. The nature around us is rich in colour and very lush although I am starting to be a bit impatient and hoping for getting to the finish of the route soon. I am really looking forward to having a beer too. I am dirty, full of dust and dirt, sweaty and thirsty. Although I have enough water in my Camelbak I don't feel like driking it, I had enough of water in the last few days!!! The route seems to be never ending but finally we do get there and we walk through the Marangu Gate (usually the starting point) and we are back to civilization!

There is a registrations office at Marangu gate where we have to sign a ledger to confirm we made it back ok - as I expressed it "We have just logged off Kilimanjaro". It's a bit sad moment as this is where it ends. We are officially back and out of Kili, the special place we had the honour to visit and experience. But we are grateful for being alive and being able to have a little break. We shop in the souvenir shop, we get beer and we sit down. What a feeling!!! Congratulations everyobody, you've done well!

Our certificates are being prepared while some of us are shopping for souvenirs, some of us are having more beer, some of us are sending postcards. Our guides are there too, we even meet Salomon again, who looks healthy and ok. This is a bizzare moment but we are all very happy!

And then our bags are loaded on the bus and we all are on the way away from Kili...

First we stop in the Kilimanjaro Mountain Resort where we pick up our luggages that we left there almost a week ago and we are also re-joined by Gary who so mysteriously left our camp on the summit night. He doesn't mention anything about that night and we don't ask. We are now on the way back to Arusha and the Moivaro Lodge. Some of the guides are in the bus with us and we drop them off on the way, depending on their places of living.

We reach Moivaro Lodge in the early evening. It's dark. Everybody is looking forward to having a shower so we agree we meet again for dinner in about an hour and half. It's strange to be back here, in Moivaro where we started a few days ago. At that time we were full of expectations, maybe a bit scared but a lot more excited and now we're a few days older and full of amazing and unforgettable experience. We've made new friends, we achieved something great, we fulfilled a dream, we overcame a challenge...

I just hope the shower is not going to take away the little dust speckles of Kilimanjaro memories...

The re-union at the dinner (sans Gary) is like a glamorous makeover. Everybody squeaky clean and in different clothing than Berghaus/Helly Hansen/North Face outdoor kit. The beer is being ordered, the burgers are being eaten and we have our own little Certificate ceremony. (It's necessary to note that the Niagara guy whom we met again at the Marangu Gate was on the bus with us to Moivaro Lodge but then he disappeared and we never saw him again). More beer, laugh and talking about Kilimanjaro. That's our last evening together in Africa...

From the roof of Africa with love (part 2) - Uhuru is not just a lager (by Darina)

Friday 24th September 2010, around 7:30am

Nothing like to be sitting around half past seven in the morning on the lower top of Kilimanjaro, taking in the beauty of the sun’s warmth on your face. One thing I am noticing is that there is no snow. We can see glaciers but there is no snow otherwise and that was one of the things we were prepared for. I am very grateful that the weather was so kind to us.

I could probably sit here forever but we need to continue to Uhuru and then rush back to lower altitude. After a short panic episode (me going over the rocks to send an email and then not being able to put my third trousers layer back on therefore me just standing there alone, breathing heavily, being not able to move and not able to think what to do… for about ten minutes!) we set off.

The path is much more pleasant than the nightmare from Jamaica Rocks and is rolling up and down slightly. Still it’s a long way to go, especially when you’re only living on a bar of Cadbury milk chocolate and water (the pipe still frozen so still using the back up water from the bottle). The sun is pleasant but makes me feel sleepy again. At one point I just want to sit down and sleep but Robbie, who’s our guide from Gilman’s Point, keeps saying we’re close. So I keep shuffling and shuffling. People passing us from the other direction, coming back from the peak, keep saying “Well done, keep going” and “Almost there” and similar nonsense as we’re still NOT almost there. It feels like another marathon and we need to make several stops to refresh and de-layer before we finally get to climb the last very slight hill that leads us to another wooden sign!

The first thing that comes to my mind is that this is not what I thought it would look like. It’s a wooden post standing at the end of the road, it’s not like a peak of a mountain at all. But then I realise we’ve arrived, we’re here, we’ve made it and everything else is gone! The tiredness, the hunger, the frozen pipe, the numb toes, lack of sleep, all problems and little troubles vanish because we’re standing on the roof of Africa and what’s more important, we are all ok and enjoying this moment immensely! I feel great. It’s like I am a new person. My breathing is fine, the air is wonderfully fresh. I feel energised and all the tiredness is gone. We all hug, we take pictures, we laugh… It’s an amazing moment.

There is a long way back ahead of us now. It’s hard to believe it’s only half eight in the morning, we were walking for more than eight hours and there are another three hours back to the Kibo Huts for lunch and then three/four hours to our last camp expecting us. It’s not as much fun but the excitement of our achievement is pushing us to move on. The route back is the same up to the Gilman’s Point and through the rocks and stones above the Jamaica Rocks. Then we divert towards a very steep downhill slope of scree. We can either walk it in zigzags or slide which sounds like fun and looks like a fast way how to get down. It’s unbelievably exhausting too I find out very soon. My knees are complaining already, they don’t like the downhill trek at all. I end up falling on to my bum several times too but who cares, there is a lunch awaiting us at the bottom of the hill!

When we finally get to the camp, I just lie down in the tent and lie and lie. We’re covered in fresh dust from the scree adventure. Trying to get rid of it seems like an impossible task as it’s very windy and the dust is just flying around. The camp is very quiet, everybody is resting. Later I learn that some people – Ryan, Jason, Denise – made it to the Gilman’s Point and then decided to go back. I feel a big admiration for them as Ryan and Denise were climbing on an empty stomach and Jason was having big problems with his toes.

The atmosphere at the lunch is much more positive than our breakfast “last night”. I feel happy but also very sleepy and am sure that tonight I will be sleeping like a log even if the tent is suspended in the air somewhere. We get a little bit more time to rest after lunch before we’re rushed to walk to the next camp, the Horombo Camp which is in 3700m. The route is easy, slightly downhill on a pleasant track. We make it to the camp just after the sun set. Our last dinner together is cheerful but the tiredness is taking its toll and we all go to the tents to sleep fairly early. As expected I sleep like a baby for the first time in a week!

From the roof of Africa with love (part 1) - Up to the Gilman's Point (by Darina)

Thursday, 23rd September 11pm

“Hello”. It’s eleven pm and one of the guides is waking us up. No need to wake ME up as I was up anyway. It’s a big relief. I don’t want to think about the implications of the lack of sleep now as I actually feel energised and ready to go. It’s a hard work to get out of the sleeping bag, I am breathing like I’ve just finished a marathon. I start to dress, very slowly. Four layers on my legs – thermal, base layer leggings, thin trekking trousers, thick trekking trousers and waterproof overtrousers – and five layers on my upper body – long-sleeve base layer, long-sleeve technical T-shirt, two fleeces and waterproof jacket. Thin socks and thick socks. My head is covered in balaclava, fleece headband and winter hat, all glamorously topped up with a head torch. Undergloves and warm ski gloves are protecting my hands. Party, anyone?

Just before getting out of the tent for the breakfast I have a little problem with my Camelbak. It looks like one of the shoulder straps is ripped off. I panic as I can’t imagine how to survive the night without it, then I start to think about how I could sew it. Fortunately my brain is not totally frozen yet and after closer investigation I figure out that the strap is only untied. Easily fixed. Just to be sure I add a few pins to hold it all together. Time to go for a breakfast!

Or should I say hobble. It’s difficult to move in all those layers (can’t imagine what it would be like with the fifth layer on my legs) and when you add the lack of oxygen… It’s dark – despite the full moon – and cold – although not as much as we’re expected and were prepared for. For breakfast we have porridge and fruits, then Diamox and we get some chocolate for the trek. Sonja is already somewhere on the way up there but there is another person missing. Gary. We learn that he left the camp – rather mysteriously and in the middle of the night. The whole situation is a bit strange and surreal but at the minute we don’t have time (or energy) for any speculations. As….

… there is one very interesting hill waiting for us to climb it, so let’s go!

We walk very, very slowly, little shuffling steps, one by one. There are other climbing groups before us. We can see the flickering lights of their torches. The terrain is fairly good, it’s a scree, the stones are very small though and it’s easy to walk, no need for lifting knees too much. And the walking poles are helping to keep a steady pace. I don’t have any issues with breathing at this moment (the pace is very slow), the air is very fresh and sharp. The first few meters of the route is straight uphill but as soon as it starts to be too steep, we start doing the infamous zigzags. That’s where the mental struggle starts. Not straight away but the zigzags are going to accompany us for the next five, six hours. Some of the stretches are short but it’s the long ones that get you. You’re shuffling and shuffling, looking down on the ground, focusing on the walking poles and hoping for a little change in the direction. We should be going up the mountain, not along it!!!

My nose is runny too. It’s annoying as it’s a complicated procedure to get to the tissue which is in the pocket of my jacket but to get there I need to remove my hand from the walking pole, hold the walking pole in the other hand, remove glove, open the zip of the pocket… By the time I finish re-gloving, my nose is runny again… It’s a lost battle but very little problem in the greater scheme of things. As I am actually here, standing on Kilimanjaro….

In the first phase we all walk together, Obote being the main leading guide. Time to time we have a short break to sip water and get some refreshments. During the first one I find out my Camelbak’s pipe is frozen despite the fact it is insulated. Paul has a similar problem but soon finds a solution when he pulls the pipe through his jacket. I can’t do that but fortunately I have a half a litre of water in a plastic bottle which I’ve been dragging with me since our last hotel! I am saved for now.

As we continue I realise I can’t feel my toes. It’s strange and I am a bit surprised as my thick socks are good ones, specially manufactured for this type of situations. Why are they not warming my feet? As it turns out, Paul and Jason has the same problems. I am trying to exercise my toes which helps me with staying awake and after some time (could be minutes, could be hours), I feel them again. Not falling asleep is my other problem. I struggle to stay awake, my eye lids are falling down and I just keep thinking how embarrassing it would be if I actually fall asleep and fall down… I focus on the walking poles and wiggling my toes.

I have no idea how long we’ve been walking. Our group is now divided into two. I am not sure with whom I am walking as all of us our disguised by and hidden in the layers of clothing. We pass the sign marking 5000m. Meaning in another 100m or so we will reach Hans Meyer Cave! Sounds simple but it could be another hour of walking! (Note: Hans Meyer was a German geologist and the first European who got to the Kibo top). Looking up we can see the top, little lights dotting the route that we will walk in next few hours. It seems very close and very far at the same time.

We stop at the Cave for re-charging but we can’t stay long as it takes only a few minutes for us to start feeling very cold. So we continue, zigzag, step by step. I manage to wake up a bit and resolve my falling asleep issue. Zigzag, zigzag. The next important stop is the Jamaica Rocks in 5500m. The track up there is still the same, just scree – it sometimes gets very slippery but that’s probably because we’re not as fresh and focused as we were at the beginning – and dust. Some of the zigzags seem to be taking forever before we reach the bend and that’s when I realise how mental this walk is. It’s when you realise how ridiculous it is to be here at four am, in the pitch dark and cold night, walking like an idiot in a slow motion, covering the distance which is just around 1 kilometer in about a 4-kilometer zigzag detour… But hey, soon we’ll be standing on the top!!

At Jamaica Rocks we can see a little light peeking on the horizon. The morning is coming and the idea of the sun rising soon is filling me with new energy. Which will be much needed as the part of the route between the Rocks and Gilman’s Point is a killer. I actually feel a bit betrayed. After almost six hours of zigzagging and surviving the biggest mental challenge of my life so far, we are forced to start lifting the knees and very carefully find our way through the rocks and stones. The track is suddenly steep and occasionally we need to scramble. I realise for the second time that I cannot feel my toes, this time it’s difficult to exercise them and I just hope they will be sort out when the sun is out. This part is a real test. We can see the Gilman’s Point being just a few meters above us but it feels like miles and miles away. Despite of eating all the meals we had, I am starving and we’re not even there yet. It’s starting to be warm but it’s still cold at the same time. Breathing is difficult. The bloody rocks are everywhere. But then I look around and back towards Mawenzi which is now bathing in the morning sun. Is there anything more beautiful then this?

And then we’re there! We stand next to the wooden sign telling us we’ve reached the Gilman’s Point. I am not sure what I feel. I am trying to catch my breath and then I sit down. It’s a good feeling. We are here. We are at 5681m!!! The sun is up. We get tea and hugs from our guides. We hug each other – me, Paul, Nadia. Nilam and Salma are soon following. Obote shows us where the Uhuru peak is. We just need to walk along the crater and there it is! Just! Doesn’t look horribly far but it’s about another hour and a bit of walking. But for now we can just sit for a few more minutes and enjoy the feeling we made it this far....

Day 4 - Do you have any plans for tonight? (by Darina)

Thursday, 23rd September 2010

What are your plans for tonight? I don’t know about you, but I am going to climb the highest mountain in Africa!

This morning we are woken up at 6 and start our today’s trek at 8. First we need to climb up to get out of the valley. It’s pretty chilly but the sun is shining and burning against our layered backs. I am using the walking poles and after a few minutes of walking realise that the top of my hands are hurting. The first thought is that it’s caused by the cold wind but then I realise that they are actually burnt by the sun. After a mere ten minutes. I think it’s time for my silk undergloves!

The trek through the saddle is long, daunting and let’s face it, a little bit boring. There isn’t much to look at. It’s all stones and rocks, dirt and dust (there is only one distraction on the way – wreckage of a plane that had crashed here almost two years ago!!). The journey is also mentally exhausting as we can actually see where we need to get to but it doesn’t seem to be getting closer. What’s more, we all are very much aware that tonight is the Night! Kibo is just standing there in front of us, big and proud. I don’t know what the others feel but my feelings are mixture of respect, fear and excitement. Continuing on the trek towards Kibo Huts I also feel very sleepy and am trying hard to stay awake. I guess the lack of sleep is finally catching up. The closer we are to the final destination, the more the trek is dragging and I am very much looking forward to just sit down and do nothing for at least half an hour.

We are about a couple of minutes away from entering the camp when we encounter a proper reality check. Four porters carrying a stretcher are passing by. They are in a big hurry and we can see why. On the stretcher a body tied to it and wrapped in the sleeping bag is lying. It looks like a mummy, we cannot see the face but we don’t need to. It’s a victim of the altitude sickness, fighting for his/her life… No wonder the porters are rushing down… Just what we needed before entering the last camp before the summit night!

And now look at us. Mentally exhausted. Some of us can’t eat. Some us feel nauseous. Some of us have persistent headaches. But we’re here. And we’re determined to get to the top of the hill! Before settling in the camp we have to register in the reception and then finally we can rest a bit. It feels great. We’re at 4700m and any activity is a hard work. That doesn’t feel as great. But the excitement of being so close is immense. On the other hand, all sorts of thoughts are wandering through my head. Will I be able to cope with the lack of sleep, will I be able to breathe there, will I be too cold, will I be too hot, will my water freeze, will I be dehydrated, will I be hungry, what does it look like at the top, is it going to snow… neverending questions with no answers.

But first, time for lunch. During which we get a brief about the plan for the rest of the day. We eat. Then we sleep (or at least attempt to). Then we’ll have a dinner around five thirty in the evening. The detailed information will be given about the night ahead. Then again more sleep and wake up call at eleven at night. Woohoo! We’re quite chirpy at the lunch (although some of us our missing from the table…) and soon we part into our tents to get some sleep. But first we both (Paul and I) prepare our clothing and bags for the night. We only pack what we need for the night/morning as after the ascent we will be coming back to this camp so we don’t need to worry about our main rucksacks at the minute. I cannot decide how many layers to wear. It has not been as cold as I though it would be so far but who knows what it’s like up there? I prepare about five layers for the top and five layers for the bottom. Then I try to sleep. It’s not working. And the neverending trips to the toilet tent…

Dinner is at five thirty. Everybody is excited and the conversation is all about the adventure ahead. When Obote enters the tent with five other guides who will be going with us, the excitement reaches the max. It’s surreal. We’re all in this little tent almost at the top of Africa, eating beef kebabs and chocolate and listening to advice about climbing in the middle of night. Obote says it should be around minus eight degrees (Celsius) at the top which doesn’t sound too bad. He also says the lowest temperatures will be between three and six in the morning. A thought flashes through my head – what on earth will I be doing out there at three in the morning?? Then he describes the route. There are several parts – first bit takes us to Hans Meyer Cave (at 5182m), second part ends at Jamaica Rocks (5500m). Up to there the trek should be zig zag as it’s too steep to climb otherwise. From Jamaica Rocks to Gilman’s Point (5681m) it’s rocks and stones, more or less straight up. I am thinking – who cares when you’re so close? Obviously, I have no idea yet…. :) If we’re still lucid and feel up to it then we can continue to Uhuru Peak (5895m), the ultimate goal of this trip…. Sounds easy, non?

The mood after the dinner is not as chirpy as the weight of what’s ahead downs on us. I can’t sleep. It’s cold outside but it’s quiet. No wind although we’re in the open. It’s strange. Paul sleeps. I can’t hear voices of the others so I assume they too sleep. I travel to the cyber café and back. It’s ridiculous. I probably get twenty minutes of a nap and then wake up again. I hear Sonja being woken up – she’s starting the trek one hour ahead of us. So it must be ten pm. I am trying to push the minutes, to move faster as really, the only thing I want to do now is to get up and go and climb and be at the top of the highest mountain in Africa….

Day 3 - You spin my head right round, right round...! (by Darina)

Wednesday 22nd September 2010

Day three on the mountain was important to me for several reasons. It was the first time I had experienced a headache and the first time I had realised what being in high altitude meant.

The morning is chilly but beautiful with a view of the sun rising over the pink and white fluffy clouds below us. Again I couldn't sleep properly at night but still I feel fairly refreshed and ready for another challenge. Today shouldn’t be a long walk as we are supposed to reach the next camp (4300m) around one in the afternoon and then later we have an acclimatisation walk planned (up to 4600m and back to the camp). Obote and Lazarus are our main guides for today. The walk starts uphill and is uphill all the way. Thankfully we are again walking very slowly so the rocks and stones are not a big obstacle to tackle. The nature is changing around us, it’s mostly bushes which gradually disappear until we reach only stones and rocks with no green vegetation around us at all. We are passing the 4100m mark at which point I realise I have a dull pain at the back of my skull. It’s not huge but it’s there and it’s not going away. This is my first encounter with the altitude sickness.

We are steadily hiking up the hill, Obote is promising that our camp is basically at the top of the hill. I am not tired but a bit lethargic although otherwise still very well compared to some of my co-hikers. Every break is a very welcome opportunity to catch the breath and just sit for a minute and enjoy the fact that we are over 4000m. The sky is clear and it’s sunny and dry although the wind occasionally gets under the skin.

Eventually we get to the top and to the camp which is quietly sitting in the valley under the Mawenzi peak. From here we cannot see Kibo. The ground is fairly even so I am hoping for a nice good night when I actually manage to get some sleep. But now it’s time for lunch. There is more of us now having headaches and some people are not able to eat or just simply lack the will to eat. This is the occasion when the encounter with high altitude is very real. Simple walking or bending or getting down to sit in the tent is leaving us breathless. It’s difficult to get used to the fact that everything needs to be done in slow motion but the sudden rush into the head when I do things in my normal pace teaches me the lesson very fast. We have a lunch after which I am taking a couple of Paracetamols as my headache is still there and pounding. Then we rest before our acclimatisation walk.

The walk takes us up to one of the ridges of Mawenzi. It’s very steep and rocky trek but the views are incredible. Finally we see Kibo again and the path across the saddle from Mawenzi to Kibo Huts where we will be walking tomorrow. Although our group is now affected by various altitude problems - tiredness, lack of sleep, not being able to eat, headaches, nausea - we all are very optimistic when seeing Kibo in front of us. It feels quite surreal to be here above the clouds and looking at the impressive hill ahead.

The acclimatisation walk takes about two hours. After our return to the camp, the usual evening routine expects us, followed by the dinner. The weather changes very fast after the sun set and what was a pleasantly warm day transforms into a cold and windy night. Our faces that were very optimistic just a few hours ago are now showing worries and the fear of uncertainty. My headache is gone but I decide it's the time for Diamox. I don't have time to think about the side effects, I only keep thinking that I really really want to get to the top of the hill and I will do anything I can possibly do. At this point I have no idea what an adventure the night ahead will be.

One of the things that are repeated to us on a regular basis is that we need to drink as much as possible. It's fairly simple during the day (I think I managed to drink around three litres only during the morning trek today) when you have opportunities to go and send an email whenever you need to. It's a different story at night. You have to get out of the very warm and nice sleeping bag into a sharply cold tent, get dressed, get out of the tent, find your way to the toilet tent and then go back, undress, get into the sleeping bag. All this is causing you shortness of breath, not to mention the wind and chill outside is not very friendly either. I am aware that Diamox is making this even worse as one of the side effects is the need to go and send emails more often than normally. The only thing I can do about this is to limit my drinking before we go to sleep. I manage to fall asleep fairly quickly (I did try ear plugs too which helped a lot), unfortunately am woken up soon - yes, I need to send an email. There is not much I can do, so I undergo the whole daunting procedure. Then I realise I feel very very dehydrated (which is very unusual for me) so I dare to have a little sip of water from my Camelbak. Unbelievably I need to go get up again after an hour or so. And one more time later at night even though I didn't dare to even think about having another sip. One night when I don't have issues with falling asleep and I spend it travelling to the toilet and back... However ridiculous or silly this sounds, this was my worst experience from Kili.

But hey, the night is over and ahead lies the day D when we get as close as possible to the foot of Kibo and night N when we start our trek to the summit...