From the roof of Africa with love (part 1) - Up to the Gilman's Point (by Darina)

Thursday, 23rd September 11pm

“Hello”. It’s eleven pm and one of the guides is waking us up. No need to wake ME up as I was up anyway. It’s a big relief. I don’t want to think about the implications of the lack of sleep now as I actually feel energised and ready to go. It’s a hard work to get out of the sleeping bag, I am breathing like I’ve just finished a marathon. I start to dress, very slowly. Four layers on my legs – thermal, base layer leggings, thin trekking trousers, thick trekking trousers and waterproof overtrousers – and five layers on my upper body – long-sleeve base layer, long-sleeve technical T-shirt, two fleeces and waterproof jacket. Thin socks and thick socks. My head is covered in balaclava, fleece headband and winter hat, all glamorously topped up with a head torch. Undergloves and warm ski gloves are protecting my hands. Party, anyone?

Just before getting out of the tent for the breakfast I have a little problem with my Camelbak. It looks like one of the shoulder straps is ripped off. I panic as I can’t imagine how to survive the night without it, then I start to think about how I could sew it. Fortunately my brain is not totally frozen yet and after closer investigation I figure out that the strap is only untied. Easily fixed. Just to be sure I add a few pins to hold it all together. Time to go for a breakfast!

Or should I say hobble. It’s difficult to move in all those layers (can’t imagine what it would be like with the fifth layer on my legs) and when you add the lack of oxygen… It’s dark – despite the full moon – and cold – although not as much as we’re expected and were prepared for. For breakfast we have porridge and fruits, then Diamox and we get some chocolate for the trek. Sonja is already somewhere on the way up there but there is another person missing. Gary. We learn that he left the camp – rather mysteriously and in the middle of the night. The whole situation is a bit strange and surreal but at the minute we don’t have time (or energy) for any speculations. As….

… there is one very interesting hill waiting for us to climb it, so let’s go!

We walk very, very slowly, little shuffling steps, one by one. There are other climbing groups before us. We can see the flickering lights of their torches. The terrain is fairly good, it’s a scree, the stones are very small though and it’s easy to walk, no need for lifting knees too much. And the walking poles are helping to keep a steady pace. I don’t have any issues with breathing at this moment (the pace is very slow), the air is very fresh and sharp. The first few meters of the route is straight uphill but as soon as it starts to be too steep, we start doing the infamous zigzags. That’s where the mental struggle starts. Not straight away but the zigzags are going to accompany us for the next five, six hours. Some of the stretches are short but it’s the long ones that get you. You’re shuffling and shuffling, looking down on the ground, focusing on the walking poles and hoping for a little change in the direction. We should be going up the mountain, not along it!!!

My nose is runny too. It’s annoying as it’s a complicated procedure to get to the tissue which is in the pocket of my jacket but to get there I need to remove my hand from the walking pole, hold the walking pole in the other hand, remove glove, open the zip of the pocket… By the time I finish re-gloving, my nose is runny again… It’s a lost battle but very little problem in the greater scheme of things. As I am actually here, standing on Kilimanjaro….

In the first phase we all walk together, Obote being the main leading guide. Time to time we have a short break to sip water and get some refreshments. During the first one I find out my Camelbak’s pipe is frozen despite the fact it is insulated. Paul has a similar problem but soon finds a solution when he pulls the pipe through his jacket. I can’t do that but fortunately I have a half a litre of water in a plastic bottle which I’ve been dragging with me since our last hotel! I am saved for now.

As we continue I realise I can’t feel my toes. It’s strange and I am a bit surprised as my thick socks are good ones, specially manufactured for this type of situations. Why are they not warming my feet? As it turns out, Paul and Jason has the same problems. I am trying to exercise my toes which helps me with staying awake and after some time (could be minutes, could be hours), I feel them again. Not falling asleep is my other problem. I struggle to stay awake, my eye lids are falling down and I just keep thinking how embarrassing it would be if I actually fall asleep and fall down… I focus on the walking poles and wiggling my toes.

I have no idea how long we’ve been walking. Our group is now divided into two. I am not sure with whom I am walking as all of us our disguised by and hidden in the layers of clothing. We pass the sign marking 5000m. Meaning in another 100m or so we will reach Hans Meyer Cave! Sounds simple but it could be another hour of walking! (Note: Hans Meyer was a German geologist and the first European who got to the Kibo top). Looking up we can see the top, little lights dotting the route that we will walk in next few hours. It seems very close and very far at the same time.

We stop at the Cave for re-charging but we can’t stay long as it takes only a few minutes for us to start feeling very cold. So we continue, zigzag, step by step. I manage to wake up a bit and resolve my falling asleep issue. Zigzag, zigzag. The next important stop is the Jamaica Rocks in 5500m. The track up there is still the same, just scree – it sometimes gets very slippery but that’s probably because we’re not as fresh and focused as we were at the beginning – and dust. Some of the zigzags seem to be taking forever before we reach the bend and that’s when I realise how mental this walk is. It’s when you realise how ridiculous it is to be here at four am, in the pitch dark and cold night, walking like an idiot in a slow motion, covering the distance which is just around 1 kilometer in about a 4-kilometer zigzag detour… But hey, soon we’ll be standing on the top!!

At Jamaica Rocks we can see a little light peeking on the horizon. The morning is coming and the idea of the sun rising soon is filling me with new energy. Which will be much needed as the part of the route between the Rocks and Gilman’s Point is a killer. I actually feel a bit betrayed. After almost six hours of zigzagging and surviving the biggest mental challenge of my life so far, we are forced to start lifting the knees and very carefully find our way through the rocks and stones. The track is suddenly steep and occasionally we need to scramble. I realise for the second time that I cannot feel my toes, this time it’s difficult to exercise them and I just hope they will be sort out when the sun is out. This part is a real test. We can see the Gilman’s Point being just a few meters above us but it feels like miles and miles away. Despite of eating all the meals we had, I am starving and we’re not even there yet. It’s starting to be warm but it’s still cold at the same time. Breathing is difficult. The bloody rocks are everywhere. But then I look around and back towards Mawenzi which is now bathing in the morning sun. Is there anything more beautiful then this?

And then we’re there! We stand next to the wooden sign telling us we’ve reached the Gilman’s Point. I am not sure what I feel. I am trying to catch my breath and then I sit down. It’s a good feeling. We are here. We are at 5681m!!! The sun is up. We get tea and hugs from our guides. We hug each other – me, Paul, Nadia. Nilam and Salma are soon following. Obote shows us where the Uhuru peak is. We just need to walk along the crater and there it is! Just! Doesn’t look horribly far but it’s about another hour and a bit of walking. But for now we can just sit for a few more minutes and enjoy the feeling we made it this far....

Day 4 - Do you have any plans for tonight? (by Darina)

Thursday, 23rd September 2010

What are your plans for tonight? I don’t know about you, but I am going to climb the highest mountain in Africa!

This morning we are woken up at 6 and start our today’s trek at 8. First we need to climb up to get out of the valley. It’s pretty chilly but the sun is shining and burning against our layered backs. I am using the walking poles and after a few minutes of walking realise that the top of my hands are hurting. The first thought is that it’s caused by the cold wind but then I realise that they are actually burnt by the sun. After a mere ten minutes. I think it’s time for my silk undergloves!

The trek through the saddle is long, daunting and let’s face it, a little bit boring. There isn’t much to look at. It’s all stones and rocks, dirt and dust (there is only one distraction on the way – wreckage of a plane that had crashed here almost two years ago!!). The journey is also mentally exhausting as we can actually see where we need to get to but it doesn’t seem to be getting closer. What’s more, we all are very much aware that tonight is the Night! Kibo is just standing there in front of us, big and proud. I don’t know what the others feel but my feelings are mixture of respect, fear and excitement. Continuing on the trek towards Kibo Huts I also feel very sleepy and am trying hard to stay awake. I guess the lack of sleep is finally catching up. The closer we are to the final destination, the more the trek is dragging and I am very much looking forward to just sit down and do nothing for at least half an hour.

We are about a couple of minutes away from entering the camp when we encounter a proper reality check. Four porters carrying a stretcher are passing by. They are in a big hurry and we can see why. On the stretcher a body tied to it and wrapped in the sleeping bag is lying. It looks like a mummy, we cannot see the face but we don’t need to. It’s a victim of the altitude sickness, fighting for his/her life… No wonder the porters are rushing down… Just what we needed before entering the last camp before the summit night!

And now look at us. Mentally exhausted. Some of us can’t eat. Some us feel nauseous. Some of us have persistent headaches. But we’re here. And we’re determined to get to the top of the hill! Before settling in the camp we have to register in the reception and then finally we can rest a bit. It feels great. We’re at 4700m and any activity is a hard work. That doesn’t feel as great. But the excitement of being so close is immense. On the other hand, all sorts of thoughts are wandering through my head. Will I be able to cope with the lack of sleep, will I be able to breathe there, will I be too cold, will I be too hot, will my water freeze, will I be dehydrated, will I be hungry, what does it look like at the top, is it going to snow… neverending questions with no answers.

But first, time for lunch. During which we get a brief about the plan for the rest of the day. We eat. Then we sleep (or at least attempt to). Then we’ll have a dinner around five thirty in the evening. The detailed information will be given about the night ahead. Then again more sleep and wake up call at eleven at night. Woohoo! We’re quite chirpy at the lunch (although some of us our missing from the table…) and soon we part into our tents to get some sleep. But first we both (Paul and I) prepare our clothing and bags for the night. We only pack what we need for the night/morning as after the ascent we will be coming back to this camp so we don’t need to worry about our main rucksacks at the minute. I cannot decide how many layers to wear. It has not been as cold as I though it would be so far but who knows what it’s like up there? I prepare about five layers for the top and five layers for the bottom. Then I try to sleep. It’s not working. And the neverending trips to the toilet tent…

Dinner is at five thirty. Everybody is excited and the conversation is all about the adventure ahead. When Obote enters the tent with five other guides who will be going with us, the excitement reaches the max. It’s surreal. We’re all in this little tent almost at the top of Africa, eating beef kebabs and chocolate and listening to advice about climbing in the middle of night. Obote says it should be around minus eight degrees (Celsius) at the top which doesn’t sound too bad. He also says the lowest temperatures will be between three and six in the morning. A thought flashes through my head – what on earth will I be doing out there at three in the morning?? Then he describes the route. There are several parts – first bit takes us to Hans Meyer Cave (at 5182m), second part ends at Jamaica Rocks (5500m). Up to there the trek should be zig zag as it’s too steep to climb otherwise. From Jamaica Rocks to Gilman’s Point (5681m) it’s rocks and stones, more or less straight up. I am thinking – who cares when you’re so close? Obviously, I have no idea yet…. :) If we’re still lucid and feel up to it then we can continue to Uhuru Peak (5895m), the ultimate goal of this trip…. Sounds easy, non?

The mood after the dinner is not as chirpy as the weight of what’s ahead downs on us. I can’t sleep. It’s cold outside but it’s quiet. No wind although we’re in the open. It’s strange. Paul sleeps. I can’t hear voices of the others so I assume they too sleep. I travel to the cyber café and back. It’s ridiculous. I probably get twenty minutes of a nap and then wake up again. I hear Sonja being woken up – she’s starting the trek one hour ahead of us. So it must be ten pm. I am trying to push the minutes, to move faster as really, the only thing I want to do now is to get up and go and climb and be at the top of the highest mountain in Africa….

Day 3 - You spin my head right round, right round...! (by Darina)

Wednesday 22nd September 2010

Day three on the mountain was important to me for several reasons. It was the first time I had experienced a headache and the first time I had realised what being in high altitude meant.

The morning is chilly but beautiful with a view of the sun rising over the pink and white fluffy clouds below us. Again I couldn't sleep properly at night but still I feel fairly refreshed and ready for another challenge. Today shouldn’t be a long walk as we are supposed to reach the next camp (4300m) around one in the afternoon and then later we have an acclimatisation walk planned (up to 4600m and back to the camp). Obote and Lazarus are our main guides for today. The walk starts uphill and is uphill all the way. Thankfully we are again walking very slowly so the rocks and stones are not a big obstacle to tackle. The nature is changing around us, it’s mostly bushes which gradually disappear until we reach only stones and rocks with no green vegetation around us at all. We are passing the 4100m mark at which point I realise I have a dull pain at the back of my skull. It’s not huge but it’s there and it’s not going away. This is my first encounter with the altitude sickness.

We are steadily hiking up the hill, Obote is promising that our camp is basically at the top of the hill. I am not tired but a bit lethargic although otherwise still very well compared to some of my co-hikers. Every break is a very welcome opportunity to catch the breath and just sit for a minute and enjoy the fact that we are over 4000m. The sky is clear and it’s sunny and dry although the wind occasionally gets under the skin.

Eventually we get to the top and to the camp which is quietly sitting in the valley under the Mawenzi peak. From here we cannot see Kibo. The ground is fairly even so I am hoping for a nice good night when I actually manage to get some sleep. But now it’s time for lunch. There is more of us now having headaches and some people are not able to eat or just simply lack the will to eat. This is the occasion when the encounter with high altitude is very real. Simple walking or bending or getting down to sit in the tent is leaving us breathless. It’s difficult to get used to the fact that everything needs to be done in slow motion but the sudden rush into the head when I do things in my normal pace teaches me the lesson very fast. We have a lunch after which I am taking a couple of Paracetamols as my headache is still there and pounding. Then we rest before our acclimatisation walk.

The walk takes us up to one of the ridges of Mawenzi. It’s very steep and rocky trek but the views are incredible. Finally we see Kibo again and the path across the saddle from Mawenzi to Kibo Huts where we will be walking tomorrow. Although our group is now affected by various altitude problems - tiredness, lack of sleep, not being able to eat, headaches, nausea - we all are very optimistic when seeing Kibo in front of us. It feels quite surreal to be here above the clouds and looking at the impressive hill ahead.

The acclimatisation walk takes about two hours. After our return to the camp, the usual evening routine expects us, followed by the dinner. The weather changes very fast after the sun set and what was a pleasantly warm day transforms into a cold and windy night. Our faces that were very optimistic just a few hours ago are now showing worries and the fear of uncertainty. My headache is gone but I decide it's the time for Diamox. I don't have time to think about the side effects, I only keep thinking that I really really want to get to the top of the hill and I will do anything I can possibly do. At this point I have no idea what an adventure the night ahead will be.

One of the things that are repeated to us on a regular basis is that we need to drink as much as possible. It's fairly simple during the day (I think I managed to drink around three litres only during the morning trek today) when you have opportunities to go and send an email whenever you need to. It's a different story at night. You have to get out of the very warm and nice sleeping bag into a sharply cold tent, get dressed, get out of the tent, find your way to the toilet tent and then go back, undress, get into the sleeping bag. All this is causing you shortness of breath, not to mention the wind and chill outside is not very friendly either. I am aware that Diamox is making this even worse as one of the side effects is the need to go and send emails more often than normally. The only thing I can do about this is to limit my drinking before we go to sleep. I manage to fall asleep fairly quickly (I did try ear plugs too which helped a lot), unfortunately am woken up soon - yes, I need to send an email. There is not much I can do, so I undergo the whole daunting procedure. Then I realise I feel very very dehydrated (which is very unusual for me) so I dare to have a little sip of water from my Camelbak. Unbelievably I need to go get up again after an hour or so. And one more time later at night even though I didn't dare to even think about having another sip. One night when I don't have issues with falling asleep and I spend it travelling to the toilet and back... However ridiculous or silly this sounds, this was my worst experience from Kili.

But hey, the night is over and ahead lies the day D when we get as close as possible to the foot of Kibo and night N when we start our trek to the summit...